Lathmaar Holi in Barsana and Nandgaon


A completely different kind of Holi (The Festival Of colours) is played within 100 kilometers from the heart of Delhi





In next few weeks there is another Holi coming up, the color of festival. A festival of joy and love. Holi in Braj region is played for more than a week in innumerable temples of Radha-Krishna with limitless enthusiasm and devotion by thousands of people.




I had been to Brindavan earlier, but not during ‘Holi’. So the experience of ‘Holi’ in Barsana and Nandgaon was simply out of the World. I drove down from Delhi. The journey started at 3AM in the morning to reach Barsana by 5AM in the morning. It was a smooth and nice drive. Reached Barsana just before the Sun shown it’s first ray. While enjoying a tea and a smoke, I started getting ready with my camera and few other things in a backpack to start the day sitting in a local tea shop. 


A family tea shop. One of my most liked shoot. 





While walking through the village upto the 'Radharani temple', which is quite a bit of walking up hill and I realised it was not too easy for the ones’ used to daily city life, like me. By then the ‘Holi’ in Barsana started. So, I started shooting things around me with a constant reminder at the back of my mind to save my camera and other instruments. It was equally important for me.




As it is one of the biggest festival celebrated allover in India, but it's even more special in the Northern part of India. One of it’s kind ‘Holi’ is played in the ‘Braj region’. The place, which is connected to Lord Krishna for thousands of years. They are Barsana, Nandagaon and Vrindavan. People for all over the World come throughout the year; but during holi, it's filled with devotees, enthusiasts and also media.





Yet not too commonly known a village, Barsana is the birthplace of ‘Radha’, the beloved of Lord Krishna. It’s located approximately 45 Km from Vrindavan (1.5 hours from Delhi), where men from Nandgaon, which is said to be the land of Krishna, come to play Holi with the girls of Barsana with extreme enthusiasm. It is said that this is the same way the holi is played, as it was played by Krishna with Radha and his ‘Gopis’. They come in a group for raising their flag over Shri Radha's temple, which is the only Radha temple in the World. But, instead of colours they are greeted with sticks by the 'Gopis'. It is not any ritual of mock hitting, these women really hit and hit hard to men who come from 'Nandgaon'!




Hence, playing this Holi gets the name, Lathmaar Holi (Playing holi with sticks). Men, even small boys come fully prepared with pads and shield made of cane, as they are aware of being welcomed by the ‘Gopis’, hitting with sticks. In this mock sort of battle ends with smiles from both the sides.


Somehow I managed to enter a local person’s house, tipping the gatekeeper. That saved me from being the mad rush and also I got some opportunity to take snaps from the top.Thousands of people from allover gather to play and watch this spectacular ‘Holi’. They get drenched in colours, visit Radharani temple, sing bhajans of ‘Radha-Krishna’. Men enhance the spirit of holi with ‘Bhang’ for some pure bliss along with the growing temparature of colours everywhere.





By the time, I came down from the temple and village, it was evening. Started for Vrindavan as it was already dark. The hotel was booked for staying the night. After a long shower and cleaning myself and the camera, went down for dinner and then before I could think anything, I was fast asleep.




The next day I started for Nandgaon early in the morning. Today is the day when it is the turn for revenge for the men from Barsana to Nandgaon for ‘Holi’ and ‘Lathmaar Holi’. They do reciprocate by drenching the women of Nandgaon in colours of kesudo, naturally occurring orange-red dye and red palash flower. So this is the day when women of Nadagon beat the invaders from Barsana.  Once again, they do beat hard too!




From the top of the Krishna temple, when the group of Barsana starts for Nandgaon, can be seen. It’s a beautiful sight. As they keep throwing dry colors to the air while approaching Nandgaon, there is a coloured line gets drawn in the air showing their path.




A couple of hours approximately all men from Barsana sit in the courtyard of the Radha-Krishna temple sing and carry out rituals, which from the top over and over men throw colours on them.People in both the places are extremely friendly. They even welcome outsiders like me, who mostly is there for photography. It was 2012 March, when I went there. But, would like to visit again, one more time. 




‘Holi’ of 2012, I will remember throughout my life! It was  indeed a ‘Lathmaar’!




And then.. finally found Krishna again on the day #2 on the night of my way back to Delhi after an extremely tiring yet wonderful 2 days of a colourful holi! 

But what I didn't know was another interesting 'Lathmaar' part was still waiting in Delhi! 

That's another interesting story remain for another time!

Wish you all a very happy, colourful and a safe 'Holi'!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Missing you two!

A forgotten tale of Deeg